Question about veneer application

[robertbartsch]

Has anyone tried to apply a new hardwood veneer layer over old veneer?

I bought some Valencia 846b cabs that need restoration and I also bought some walnut veneer (no backing) to acomplish this.

This veneer is thin and it should be fairly easy to work with. I'm planning to cover the areas that are currently missing veneer, or chips, deep scratches, etc. with plastic wood.

I also have a router but I'm thinking its use will not be needed if I can cut the new veneer with a box cutter, sissers or utility knife. I think I can square up the edges after glueing using a wood block and sandpaper.

I'm I nuts?

[Altec Best]

Has anyone tried to apply a new hardwood veneer layer over old veneer?

I bought some Valencia 846b cabs that need restoration and I also bought some walnut veneer (no backing) to acomplish this.

This veneer is thin and it should be fairly easy to work with. I'm planning to cover the areas that are currently missing veneer, or chips, deep scratches, etc. with plastic wood.

I also have a router but I'm thinking its use will not be needed if I can cut the new veneer with a box cutter, sissers or utility knife. I think I can square up the edges after glueing using a wood block and sandpaper.

I'm I nuts?

Hi Robert, You won't need a router to apply veneer.A very sharp(New Blade) utility knife a veneer roller,contact cement,and patience do a dry run you only get one shot with contact cement.When you trim the veneer hold the blade at 45 deg.so the cut is back from the edge a bit.Sand edges with a very fine paper 400-600 grit and then Finnish with stain,polyurethane,etc...

I had just read a good thread over at LH on applying veneer.I think Rick posted it (Saeman) Good Luck with your project.

Kind Regards !!

[SOOTSHE]

Robert,

Yes, you should be able to go over the old veneer quite successfully, provided it is smooth & even & no edges are lifting. Altec Best is right....you only get one go when you use contact cement. I'd suggest using thin flat spacers (50mm X 2mm thick)....place these on the original surface, then lie the new veneer on top & position it correctly. Finally lift one edge of the new veneer & remove the first spacer & glue down. Then lift the rest of the veneer & glue down successively as you remove all the spacers. Here's a link to the Klipsch forum where I have just reveneered my La Scala's. <meta name="description" content="Klipsch audio systems provide the true audio/video lover a wide variety of high performance loudspeakers and loudspeaker systems for music and home theater entertainment centers, including iPod speakers, multimedia s
Most of this was veneered onto new ply, but the dog house & inside of the side walls was applied over existing veneer.

Good luck,
John

[Steve Mac]

Yeah, years ago I did a lot of veneering and formica work with contact cement.
The wood block technique always worked. I'm thinking, wonder if I was dreaming but I thought wax paper worked too....some kinds of slick paper worked....been a long time. We used to use these trim cutters you could adjust nicely for veneer work, they weren't expensive....I was better and 10 times faster just going free hand with a matte knife blade than anything else.

P.S. several times you would screw up and misapply....but sometimes you can get out of it if yer not all the way down...don't panic...we had a hypodermic needle filled with lacquer thinner and gingerly squirted it into the joint and slowly pulled it back off. Then we'd swear at each other.

[mah]

I was advised by a wood-veneer seller that modern veneers are very thin and for home application he recommended that I have a paper backing applied to prevent adhesive bleed-through. He gave me the name of a business that does this application.

Regards, Marshall.